Although this veteran was the first grown-up resto on the strip, the beautifully set formal tables and sophisticated, French-inspired menu don't preclude a night of good fun. Stop by after work for a perfect martini—the list describes over 100 choices—before a dinner of sizeable, well-cooked meat (think tender, juniper-scented rack of lamb). Later on, the music gets louder, all the better for members of a sophisticated, well-fed crowd to loosen their ties.
