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Best Of Toronto
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By: Scott Bradley
Long lineups are a Chinese New Year tradition at these veteran Toronto dim sum spots. Once you're finally seated, consider it your celebratory right to spend at least an hour sipping tea and enjoying a multitude of dim sum dishes.
Bright Pearl 346 - 348 Spadina Avenue (416) 979-3988 http://www.brightpearlseafood.com
The cavernous dim sum favourite, where trolleys of treats serve chattering hordes every weekend. All of the standards—from bean curd rolls to properly greasy chicken feet—are done well. During the week, it specializes in seafood.
Lai Wah Heen 108 Chestnut Street (416) 977-9899 http://www.metropolitan.com/lwh
A unusually broad selection of Chinese teas gets the meal off to a peaceful start, lending the energy to surf through the three-page menu. Chef Terence Chan's dim sum card presents such classics as an array of dumplings' go for the curry shrimp and taro version. Tapioca with exotic fruit is a stand out dessert. Good quality, but at this price point, one expects more innovation. $30.00 - $45.00 prix fixe; $75.00 a la carte with tea. Reservations recommended.
Dragon Dynasty 2301 Brimley Road (416) 321-9000
Expect the large entryway to be filled with waiting families and hungry young couples. Dishes are a step above most dim sum restaurants. Firm vegetarian dumplings are filled with bamboo shoots, greens and mushrooms. Tender beef ribs in black bean sauce are bursting with flavour, while crispy deep-fried shrimp with mayonnaise is superb. $40.00 for two with tea.
Kim Moon Bakery 438 Dundas Street West (416) 977-1933
Come here for a little peace and quiet, quick service and the city's best prices on dim sum. A telecom system alerts the basement kitchen as to which dishes to send up via dumb waiter. Classics: a bundle of leaf-wrapped sticky rice, stuffed banana peppers, deep-fried squid and various dumplings' come with no pretensions and the bill is half the price of other restaurants. Use the spare change for some fresh baked goods to snack on as you wander Chinatown. $15.00 for two with tea.
Sky Dragon 280 Spadina Avenue Top floor (416) 408-4999
This is the place for devout fans of dim sum by cart. Well-lit and well-worn, Sky Dragon has the massive, plastic-covered tables of the classic family dim sum eatery. Servers are friendly, but don't speak much English, so use your pidgin Chinese or just point. Order a tangle of pan-fried pea shoots from the a la carte menu for a healthy and very tasty accompaniment to the usual suspects. $20.00 for two with tea.
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